Famed for its beaches, it should be of no surprise that our time in Milos was spent largely in pursuit of great beaches. Having come up trumps with Tsigrado the day before, on our second day in Milos the plan was much the same- head south and keep exploring. Unfortunately in spite of retreating to the South, the winds were still blustery at best. The first beach we arrived at was Provatas, a fairly commercial (by Milos standards this doesn’t actually mean a great deal) and offered sun loungers, cafes and a little crowd. As you can see though…our stint at Provatas did not last long as the wind got the better of us and it wasn’t pretty enough a setting to make it worth sticking out for.
Sandwiched between Provatas and Tsigrado was another beach- Firiplaka. This was much more like it. When you cannot actually see the beach from the car park I generally take this is a good sign of things to come. Likewise, when people are prepared to carry pushchairs, cool boxes, and even children above their heads in order to negotiate down a tricky route and along a narrow path it usually indicates that the beach has more to offer than warm drinks, plates of flaccid chips and an oil slick at sea. This was the case. We traipsed down the dusty path, round a rocky turn and along a narrow strip of rock only wide enough for one at a time. The beach that emerged was beautiful. Peaceful (in spite of a group of French teenagers) and sporting the most brilliant of colours – the shallows of the water were the greeny blues of turtle shells and the rocks were laced with layers of quartz, rouge and terracotta reds.
Having already failed miserably in Provatas to quash the wind’s attempts at uprooting our towels we played it safe and opted for loungers. The sea was refreshing and provided solace for sun-scorched (and sand-blasted) skin. In between dips we dug into our supplies- juicy nectarines from the convenience store in Pollonia and chocolate biscuits which had to be eaten before the heat claimed them entirely. The cafe shack seemed to have managed to nail iced-coffees and iced-chocolates so naturally these needed to be tried and tested too- and damn tasty they were. Having refuelled we strolled to length of the beach and discovered another segment just beyond the crumbly archway. Equally spectacular and equally beautiful it was a sought-after spot, and in this instance a group of bronzed topless goddesses had claimed the prize. They seemed to have a canny strategy- positioned just so that all the remaining patches of sand would have been too close for comfort for prude and cautious tourists, something that would not have been as much of the case had they been bikini-clad. The result- they had the beach to themselves- the nipples had triumphed.
First Tsigrado and now this – Milos was proving its worth a hundred times over. Idyllic beaches were what we had come for, and idyllic beaches is what we got.