Delpozo is not an obvious choice, yet it should be. Every season the big names are anticipated and for some the Delpozo show slips by without much thought or attention. Many, for instance, haven’t heard of the Madrid-based label. However, if the SS16 show is anything to go by then this will no doubt change by the time the next season dawns in the cyclical world of fashion.
Delpozo can always be counted on for putting forward a rich offering of texture, decoration, detailing, shape, and imagination. The playful approach is thanks to Josep Font, a master of creativity, season upon a season drawing on new inspiration and challenging existing ideas about elegance. It is this constant ability to wow and keep the fashion pack on their toes that is so inspiring and intriguing.
SS16 saw crisp tailoring in sorbet shades and shirts adorned with such perfect circles that it would be unsurprising if a compass had not appeared in Font’s box of tailor tricks this year. Between such flawless and neat components was a shimmer of sequin scales in jewel-like emerald, all finished off with the most beautiful pair of sparky heels. Nude in colour, mounted on a gold platform, and with a dazzling spray of glassy streaks as slender and as glistening as blades of dewy grass, for me, these were the game changers.
The almost jewellery-esque detailing continued to the evening wear pieces. A white strapless gown caught my eye- something that was effortlessly simple and surprisingly sutble and understated when its level of bling was considered. Reminding me of Mykonian evening glam and of Sabine Getty’s Schiaparelli wedding gown, delicate clusters of gold beading mounted upon pristine white and pale duck-egg grey giving the colour-combination du jour the final seal of approval. This colour palette also found its way onto a rather fantastic pair of opulent pantaloons enriched with a gold palm print. Worn with a fine cashmere layer and an equally dazzling splash of jewels these would make for the ultimate party trousers that every dress-phobic wardrobe craves.
Extravagance and a nod to the extroverts also cut a contemporary figure – a colour-block strapless dress whose skirt undulated and rolled from the waistband to the knee created a silhouette reminiscent of the Simons’s first outing with Dior and directed a harmony of navy, red, and pink (the combination looked so of-the-moment that my rail of grey and black clothes at home may have to make an exception and welcome it in even if the reception is initially frosty). A bow-fronted mid-length dress also brought a note of simplicity, whilst the blossom-coloured tulle, brightly-patterned gown complete a bulbous tulip-like skirt, and origami inspired blush and cornflower blue dresses struck a chord with the sartorial buffs who believe the devil really is in the detail.
The precision of each piece is immense and the silhouette flattering (despite the fact it is more often than not directed away from the models’ slim frames). These are the kinds of clothes which you can imagine suddenly feeling lighter on your toes when wearing, clothes which cause the wearer to ooze a degree of grace that may have previously been undetected or dormant. And a designer who can achieve this and can realise the true potential of fashion is one that most certainly deserves recognition.