Show Report – JW Anderson RTW SS16

Not one to opt for the conventional, the JW Anderson SS16 show brought anything but the ordinary. Doodles and squiggles wriggled through the collection in the forms of shape, cut, and pattern whilst an eclectic mix of texture and textile sent the front row’s pencils into overdrive- almost too many details to jot down.

A singular purple squiggle was to be seen wiggling down one leg of a pair of flippy-hemmed white trousers whilst a more graphic monochrome take on the squiggle inscribed its way across bulbous-shouldered jackets, A-line miniskirts, and the jazziest of trousers. Another pair of trusty trousers had a sartorial moment of triumph too, this time a baby blue pair whose slinky long legs were detailed with drawstring ties to create umbrella shapes at the ankles, a little bit of punctuation where it is often expected least. For someone who envies the variety thrust into the hands of skirt wearers (A-line, skater, mini, midi, maxi etc. the list goes on) the experimentation with the humble trouser is somewhat refreshing- finally the encyclopaedia of trouser cuts and styles is growing inch by inch.

Playfulness wasn’t just to be found at the ankles; rubber bras (so tiny that most of us would only dream of wearing them under the comfort of a spider-web fine knit) added a punchy kick whilst spaghetti-strap tops came with giant modesty-covering clam-like ruffles that promise to be such a hit with the young fashion pack that it wouldn’t be incongruous to forecast their abundance on dance floors and party circuits next spring.

Wearability came in the form of contemporary ruffle-necked zippy knitwear that came in the figure-hugged variety. Equally forward-thinking was the zip-fronted black tunic where the role of a belt was rendered redundant thanks to the silver squiggle around the middle, which found that its stock soared significantly thanks to being styled over slim kick-flares. This unexpected mixing of shapes was mirrored by Anderson’s equally experimental use of texture- textiles were mismatched and played against each other with aplomb and confidence… sharp tailoring met delicate and fine laces, rubber met leather whilst iridescent chiffon found companionship alongside zippy ribbed knitwear. Our senses are now successfully in overdrive.

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