This season Mary Katrantzou took us on an enchanting journey through time. Elements of the designer’s Greek heritage pervaded through the collection in the form of spectacular swirls like those at the top and tail of ancient columns, as well as a rich shade of gold one previously thought as being the reserve of nobody but a goddess. Just as we were harking back to crumbled empires, Kantrantzou sent us hurtling forward to a space age of glistening galaxies and intergalactic splendour. Dazzling dresses came thick and fast, each crafted with thousands of sequins and beads that seemed to jitter under the runway lights like particles of glittering stardust (for a show like this, wearing sunglasses inside is somewhat mandatory). The glitz was high voltage and whilst a passion for stargazing and meteorology was not a prerequisite for attending the show, it was presumably something that everyone left with.
Once again the level of attention to detail to Katrantzou’s designs was astounding – something that has remained a constant throughout every collection, and the designer’s love of print (something that has become her signature) was, as always, first rate. Sheer dresses adorned with a spray of sparkle wafted from sporty necklines, the blue and purple tones bleeding together in a transient quality, their movement seeming almost tangible. With shades best suited to the skies over Iceland where the Northern Lights flicker and glow, Katrantzou’s iridescent colours, on reflection, would be at home on the pages of a cosmology book. Paired with ribbed tights in jewel colours and grey the collection felt contemporary and made the pieces more than just great party dresses, but rather design feats.
Intricate florals and paisleys showed later as the models revealed beautiful ditzy floral dresses in an array of rich colours that will whizz of the shelves come spring when bare legs yearn to slip into something floaty even if the chill in the air is still a little brisk. Symmetrical purple and burnt orange floral patterns gave a folky country-feel- something almost alien to Katrantzou’s previous collection which featured perspex eyelash skirts and bold graphic detailing. As her confidence grows as a designer Katrantzou is evidently entering into new realms of possibility with her label heading in directions never imagined before (unlike their retail appeal which are still headed onwards and upwards).
With summery day dresses ticked off the list there was, of course, still room for another dose of high octane partywear. Jewel tones and peacock blues in quilted silk juxtaposed with petal-thin fluttering frills continued to command the runway, each piece of the kaleidoscopic offering sending the front row into a deeper sartorial trance. What better way to see out the party than with a jazzy finale of sequinned disco stripes and microscopic minis…prepare to be dazzled.